Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Bruges, Belgium, Sat 19 - Sun 20 Sept 09
We took a local train to Bruges (or Brugge) and our first impressions were of walking through a pretty little park next to a canal on a beautiful sunny day. A great start!
We weren't quite sure about our accommodation because we got to what we thought was the address and there was no sign on the door or anything. So we knocked on the door (whose could have been anybodys!) but luckily enough we were in the right place. The B&B owner ushered us into her home and proceeded to seat us and take us through all the admin.
She was a funny thing, very little english with a mix of French and Italian and even the odd Spanish word thrown in there too. But with a bit of work we managed to understand each other. She took us through everywhere we should go, where we should eat and drink and what to see. She meant well of course but to be honest it was quite overwhelming. Staying there was kinda like staying with a distant great aunt you've never met, lovely and talkative but you still can't help feeling a little ackward and out of place.
Armed with a map and a list of instructions we headed into Brugge in search of some lunch. We stopped at a road-side (well more of a lane really) cafe where I enjoyed a Belgium waffle with fresh strawberries and icecream! Delicious! Their waffles are so sweet and flavoursome.
With full stomachs we explored Brugge. The Markt (yes I spelt that correctly) was the main square full of cafes, the Belfry Tower and the Town Hall. Along a small street was another square called The Burg. No, wait, The Burg had the Town Hall and a pretty white renaissance style building too. There was also the church where the Holy Blood is (the Basilica of the Holy Blood) which is said to be a drop of Christ's blood.
We saw the horse drawn carts in the Markt and explored the beautiful churches, cobbled streets, canals, pretty gardens, old medieval bridges and antique markets. Brugge is an incredibly beautiful town. We also visited a lot of neat shops, Brugge is big on it's lace and chocolate!
We walked down the shopping district and came to a modern square next to the Concert Hall - a modern new architecture building. My feet were exhausted so we chilled there on seats next to a cool fountain for ages.
We had booked in for dinner at a restaurant near the Markt recommended to us by Maria, our B&B host. We were early so we chilled in the Markt watching the world (and horses) go by and enjoyed the beautiful atmosphere as the sun went down. Bruges really is something else at night, with the horse drawn carts, cobble lanes and old street lanterns it was like something straight out of a fairytale. Absolutely breathtaking.
Dinner was at a bar called Bier Brasserie Cambrinus. It was a great place with a cool atmosphere and a 400 strong beer selection. Seriously the beer menu was like a book! Check out the photo a little bit further down. Yep that is in fact the beer list! Crazy aye?!
Nick convinced me to be brave and I ordered a fruit beer, not easy since the fruit beer section of the book alone was about 6 pages! But I finally settled on a strawberry one. It was actually really good and I finished the whole thing! Only second time in my life I've finished a beer. Nick says it doesn't count since fruit beer "isn't really beer" but I still feel proud :)
The menu was weird so we took a gamble, ordering something a bit different. Nick went for a dish that we couldn't pronounce but contained beef so was reasonably safe. I went for a Rabbit dish. Nick's turned out to be a Beef Casserole and mine a Rabbit Casserole. Both stewed in beer enhanced gravy with greens, apple sauce and a side of frites (of course, this is Belgium!).
The meals were delicious, the meat soft and fall-apart yummy. Nick was happy because the chunks of beef were huge and more like chunks of steak. Rabbit tastes great, although a little tricky with the small bones. Just wish Nick hadn't kept making bunny jokes :( But the food really was outstanding. Staying at the strange B&B was worth it just for the restaurant recommendation.
I went on to order a rasberry beer (one of the most delicious drinks ever) and memorised the name (Timmermans Lambic Rasberry beer) so I hopefully can find it again and then after that a peach beer. I've never drunk so much beer in my life!
After dinner we took a stroll through the town which is absolutely magical at night. I would definitely recommend Bruges to everyone.
Sunday morning was interesting thanks to our accommodation choice. There wasn't a proper shower, only a bath with a hand held shower head attached to the tap, very tricky trying to work that one out. I think it's quite a common set up in Europe since a lot of old houses only have baths but it made for a weird start to the day. We shared breakfast with a young spanish couple who were very nice, and Maria kept trying to feed us up.
After we left the B&B we walked to one of the canal bout tour launch piers where we took a cruise around the Bruges canals in a little boat. A great way to see Brugge and it's pretty bridges and canal-side houses.
After that we queued for ages to get up the Bellfry Tower and sadly it cost a lot of money to go up a tower which had very restricted views because of a raised ledge and wire meshing. So definitely not worth it. We also stopped into the Basilica of the Holy Blood church but they had a service on (of course, it was Sunday) so saw some of the chapel but didn't see the actual holy blood relic.
Maria wasn't going to be home in the afternoon so she had given us keys to her house to go back and pick up our bags (very kind!) and we finished up our trip with a lie in the sun in the park while we waited for our train to take us back to Brussels and then on to London again.
I really had a wonderful time in Belgium. It's famous for it's beer, fries, waffles, mussels and tin-tin (a lot of food you'll noticed) and I indulged in it all (except the mussels - ick) and had a great weekend!
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